Buttonhole-machine.



H. c. MILLER. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE, APPLICATION FILED AUG. I6, 19!].

Patented J an. 4, 1916.

6SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Show x 501,

,H. c. MILLER. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE,

, VAPPLVICATIQN Fl LED AUG.I6. I911. I 136K197, Patented Jan.4,1916- H.c. MILLER.

BUTTONHOLE MACHINE APPLICATION FILED AUG. I6, I91].

Patented Jail. 4, 1916) 6 SEETS-SHEET 4.

In rental. A4 Chilly/Z131.

H. C. MiLLER- BUTTONHOLE MACHINE, APPLICATIDN FILED AUG: 16, 1911.

Patented 5511A, 1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

H. VCQMILLER.

.BUTTONHOLE MACHINE, APPLlCATlON FILED AUG. 16. 1911.

1,167,197 I i Patented Jan. 4, 1916.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.,

HENRY G. MILLER, OF WATERFORD, NEW YORK.

BUTTONHOLE-MACHIN E.

Specification of Letters Patent.

mama Jan. 4, 1916.

Application filed August 16, 1911. Serial No. 6%,444;

To all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, HENRY C. MILLER, a citizen of the United States,residing at Waterford, in the county of Saratoga and State of New York,have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Buttonhole-Machines;and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact.description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in theart to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being hadto the accompanying drawings, and to letters or figures of referencemarked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

This invention relates to improvements in button hole machines, andprimarily to one known in the art as a double header.

Prior to my. presentfimprovements it was customary to arrange themechanism in such manner that the operator in one instance in order tocomplete acycle of movement was compelled to operate a 'treadle orsimilar means, or the mechanism was under control, and could be stoppedand started within a given cycle of movement. Ineach instance,

-. however the o erator was com oelled to start the mechanism for eachcycle of movement by manipulating separate starting means,

although such movement was automatically stopped when the stitchingoperation was completed. Necessarily, as in'making button holes, thelabor involved in this frequent starting of the machine soon tired theoperator. Furthermore, the starting devices of all sewing machines ofthe type referred to, are in each instance connected directly to partsof the-operating mechanism which requires extraordinary force to'efiecttheir throwing into action consequently requiring laborious work, .asabove stated.

' According to my invention, I propose to overcome the noted objections,as well as many others, by providing specially designed main poweroperating means, and

auxiliaryopower operating means associated with the stitching mechanism,so that when the operator feeds a collar to the stitching mechanism, thestitching, clamping, trimming, and cutting blade will automaticallycontinue to operate in sequence. The stitching operation-may be stoppedand is under perfect control at any time in any one of its definitecycles of movement. This arrangement of parts obviates the necessity ofthe' laborious work of operating separate starting mechanism at thebeginning of each cycle of movement, and because of the many automaticfeatures involved, permits of the employment of less stronger help thanwith other machines. A further object of this invention is to provideimproved means for gaging the article to receive the button holes, and.so connecting the gaging means that'it controls the setting into motionof the means for automatically making the button holes, and

the means for automatically removing the gaging means from the clothclamps.

This invention also involves improvements in the specific details ofconstruction and arrangement of parts, which will be hereafterdescribed, ed out in the claims.

Inthedrawings, forming a part of this specification: Figure 1 is a frontelevation of my improved machine. Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the same.Fig. 3 is an end elevation. Fig. 4% is a transverse sectionsubstantially on the line 4.4 of Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a perspective view ofthe operating mechanism. Fig. 6.is an enlarged plan view of the gagingdevice illustrating the position of the parts with one form of'collar.Fig. 7 is a detail plan view of one side of the gaging device andillustrating the gage positioned for another. Fig. 8 is an end elevationof the gaging device. Fig. 9 is a detail perspective view of one of the"gages. Fig; 10 is a detail front view of the gaging device. Figs. 11 to16 represent detail views ofthe operating cams. Fig. 17 is a detail viewof one of the abutment stops.

I 1 indicates a frame, on the base of which are mounted two button holestitching machine heads A and of appropriate type. Each head includes:stitching mechanism 3;

,fast pulley 4; loose pulley 5; stop motion and particularly pointwithan independent hand starter for starting the stitching mechanism withoutstarting the similar mechanism on the companion head. {This deviceinvolves a lever 16 located in convenient reach of the oper -ator.and isconnected to the stop motion de similar to-those disclosed in my priorPatvice, whereby if it be desired to mend a button hole it may beaccomplished without throwing into operation all the mechanism about. tobe described. These features are ent No. 810,297, dated Jan. 16, 1906,in view offwhich it is not deemed essential to specifically describethem.

Preferably disposed between the two heads A and B, is a longitudinalgrooved bar or guide 18 on which slides the base bar 19 of a gagingdevice 20. The forward end of the base bar is formed with a transversehollow head 21, provided on'top with a knob on handle 22, to form a handgrip. On top of the base bar 20 is a thin sheet of metal to form thecentral support of the gaging device, and to which are adjustablysecured two flat thin strips, forming angular adjustable supports 24.Fitting in the hollow transverse head 21 are two superimposed flatbars25 to the outer opposite end of each respective bar is secured athin metal plate 26 about in the same plane as the central "support 23,and forming end supports for block is formed with an enlarged portionprovided with an opening through which a screw passes to clamp saidblock to its bar 29, and from the enlarged portion, and under the bar29, extends a lip 31 having its inner end beveled to engage a collar, ifit be one of substantially uniform width throughout, or the crotchbetween the body portion and a tab if the collar be of the tabtype, asshown in Figs. 6 and 7. A cover plate 32, is secured to the bar 29 andextends over the block 30, to form an uninterrupted path for the-collarbeing introduced. The transverse superimposed bars 25 are held inadjusted position by screws 33,- fitting in openings in the hollow head21.

The central and end plates 23 and 26, are so arranged as will permit ofawiderange of adjustment, hence it follows theyare spaced apart, whichmakes itnecessary to provide the adjustable angular supports 24:. For

when the end plates are adjusted and to properly support the collar thesupports 26,

must also be adjusted. Each end support 26 is provided with a verticalend extension 35 formed with aslot 36 to receiveja rod 37held inadjusted position by a clamp nut 38,-;and

merger provided on its inner end with a down wardly and rearwardlycurved finger 39.

'These fingers are located adjacent the gages 28' and extend in closeproximity to the end supporting plates 26 and are designed toprevent'the ends of the collar turning up,

and they also afi'ord means for assisting in the withdrawal of: a collarfrom the heads. Further these fingers provide means for preventihg thecollar being inserted and the one duced to the stitching mechanisms, forit is important that the collar be as free as possible to enable theready withdrawal of the gaging device from beneath the cloth clamps.

The gaging device is limited in its rearward movement by an adjustablestop 40. This stop comprises a threaded rod 41, mounted to turn in athreaded opening. in a standard 42, and held in set position by a locknut 43. "While it is true the rearward movement of the loader is limitedby the stop 4-0, it is equally true that the rear edge of the collarmust also be limited to insure a proper setting or gaging of the ends toproperly locate the button hole with a fine degree of accuracy. I havetherefore provided on the bed plate of each head A and B, a gage stop,each of which consists of-a flatstrip 46 having its front end bentupwardly and forwardly to form an abuttingsi-irface 46 for the edges of"the collar, and an overhanging flange to overlap said collar. The innerend of each flat strip is slotted at 47, through which passes anadjusting screw 48, which engages a'threaded opening in a flat bar 49fastened to the bed of each head. By this construction-the flat strips45, may be adjusted in any direction to accommodate the curvature or theangle of the edge of a collar. These gage stops are positioned so thatabout the time the gaging device contacts with the stop 40, the rearedge of the collar will. con-.

tact with the abutting surfaces 46", and the collar will be properlylocated under the cloth clamps at the time the gaging device ceases itsmovement.

secured to the front of the frame 1 are two brackets 50, in which ismounted a shaft 51 on one end of which is fastened a curved lever 52 andat its opposite end it is provided with a depending rod 53. This deviceis what I shall term-a trip, for a purpose to be described. To the freeend of the curved lever 52 is adjustably secureda chain 54 which passesup over an idle pulleyj55, mounted on the grooved bar 18 andthenceextends for- Wardly under and around a second idle pulley 56, alsomounted on the grooved bar 18 and is secured to the rear end of thegaging device. This lever and its connection in suitable bearings is apower shaft prowith the gaging device form very essential elements inthe automatic operation of the machine for it is the movement of thislever through the medium of the gaging device, and the trip whichpermits of the automatic throwing into motion a cam shaft whichconnections automatically operate the cloth clampsand the stitchingmechanisms and causes them to perform a cycle of movement. On one sideof the frame 1 and mounted vided with fast and loose band pulley 61 and62. At one end of this shaft is fastened aband pulley 63, and at itsopposite end is a band pulley 64. Also pivotally mounted on the shaft60, is a rocking frame 65, the inner end of which extends to about thecenter of the frame 1, and is provided with bearings.

which receive a shaft 66, carrying a band pulley 67, around which andthe band pulley 64 extends a belt (38. on the opposite side of the frame1 is a shaft 69 on which is a worm 70, and fast and loose slightlygrooved pulleys'71. and 72, and normally extending around the groovedpulley 63, on shaft 60,

and the loose pulley 72, is a belt 75. This mechanism together with thebelt 122 to: be referred to hereafter constitutes what I shall term thecontinually operating main power mechanism, i

Meshing with the worm 70 is a worm gear 76 mounted on-the end of a camshaft 79 extending across the frame 1 and mounted 1n suitable bearings.The worm gear, cam shaft, and its connections, constitute 'aux1liarypowenrhechanism. On the cam shaft t0 automatically withdraw 140 is a cam52, designed to cooperate with the lever 52, to depress it at the propertime the gaging device from the cloth clamp. On this cam shaft issecured a disk 80, provided with a cut away portion or seat8l, for thenose 82 of a belt shifting lever 88, pivoted at its lower end at 84.This lever it will be noted is released by the trip the nose 82 will, bygravity fall out of the seat 81. Extending forwardly from the lever 83,is a rod 86, having its end 87, bent inwardly to be engaged by the rod53 of the trip. From a projection on the lever extends an adjustable rod88. carrying at its outer end a bifurcated standard 89 to en gage thebelt to shift the latter from the loose to the fast pulley at the propertime, and'vice versa.

When the gaging device is pushed rearinclines, so that when it wardtointroduce a collar, or other articleto the heads A and B, and justbefore reaching the cloth clamps, the slack in the chain 54 is taken upWhich rerlzs the lever 52,and

, brings its roller 52* adjacent the path of movement of the cam 52*.-This movement also rocks the shaft 51, and removes the depending rod53,, from the inturned end 87, ,of the rod 53, and permits the lever 83to fall from the seat 81 in the cam disk. lVhen this occurs the beltshifter 89, shifts the belt 75from the loose to the fast pulley 71, andas the belt 75 is constantly in motion, motion will, through the wormgear, be imparted to the cam shaft '79, hence the main power mechanismoperates the auxiliary power mechanism. The movement of the lever 83, issuch that the nose will recede from its seat sufficiently to permit theconcentric portion of the disk to freely pass, so that the nose cannotagain be seated until the disk'has made substantially one'revolution. Atthis time however the cam 52 is not in the path of'movement of theroller 52*, but the auxiliary power mechanism is in operation.

Near opposite ends of the cam shaft ,79, v

are cams 90, so timed that soon after the cam shaft starts to revolve,levers 91 will be depressed to lift the cloth clamps. Each lever 91 ispivoted at 92 and beyond the pivot point is a spring 93 to return theparts to normal position. The opposite end of said and in position toreceive the button holes. a When the gaging device is given its finalmovement the roller 52 is brought into the path of movement'of the cam52 so as to depress the lever 52 at the proper time. The gaging devicehaving positioned the'collar under the cloth clamps,.the latter arelowered by the usual springs 98, and the collar is momentarily clampedbetween said cloth clamps, and the end supports 26 of the gaging device.I The clamps now having positioned the collar, the cam 52' contacts withthe roller 52 on the lever 52 andrdepresses it, which pulls on the chain54, and automatically withdraws the ends of the gaging device from underthe clamps, the springs 98 causing the latter to hold the collar inposition to be operated upon. Immediately the gagingdevice is withdrawn,the stitching, cutting and trimming operations are performed intheir-respective order by the following mechanism;

On the cam shaft 79 are two cams 100 and moves up .levers of the stopmotion devices of the respective heads A and B. When the cams depressthe levers 101, the rod engages the hooks of the links 105, and operatesthe stop motion devices and by shifting the power,

matically thrown in and the mechanisms' will cease their respectlveoperations with the collar still he ldby the cloth clamps. The ,cam 80,is so timed that after the cams 90, and 100 have passed the rollers onthe levers 91 and 101, the nose 82 of-the lever 83 will be drawn intothe seat 81 by the depending rod 53 contacting with the inturned end 87of the rod 86, a spring 110 attached to a projection on the shaftexerting the necessary force to perform this operation.

It may be stated at this time that when the trip was operated by thegaging device to disengage the lever 83 from the disk 80,

@that the nose 82 moves far enough away from the disk 80, so that whenthe gaging device is returned to normal position the end of the nosewill be held against the periphery of disk 80, ready to be dropped intothe seat 81 by the spring 110. When the lever 83, is returned to itsnormal position it shifts the belt 75, from the fast to the loose pulley72,so that the camshaft,

gears and shaft 79 constituting the auxiliary power mechanism, comes toa stop, but the main power mechanism continues to-loperate, so that allthe operator has to do is to feed an article to the stitchingmechanisms, in order to again complete another cycle of operation, whichwill begone into farther on in this description.

Two brackets 113, extend forwardly on the frame 1, to'support a bar 114which lies just in advance of the hooked links 105. Each bracket forms aguide to limit the movement of the bar, and in the bottom of each guideare two depressions 115, in which the bar seats when in its forward orrearward position. Extending from the bar is a rod 116 whichextends'throughto the front of the frame to be in convenient reach ofthe operator. If it be desired to operate the mechanism without thestitching mechanism, the rod is pushed rearwardly and the hooked linksare removed from path of movement of the bar 104: as will bepresentlyexplained.

The shaft 66 has secured to it two grooved asses a' ulleys 120, and 121,around which elt 1.22 which as previously state consti- The cams 100,

tutes' a part of the main power mechanism. This belt is for. the purposeof driving the mechanism on the'heads A and B, and-the parts are soarranged as to accommodate the belt for any" adjustment of the saidheads. Swiveled in two brackets extending up from the frame 1, are twopairs of pulleys indicated at 125, and 126.

The belt 122, passes around the loose pulley 5, on the head B, thencearound one of the pulleys 126 and over and around one of the pulleys121, then down and around pulley 120 on the shaft 66. The belt thenextends up and around one of the pulleys 123, and around one of thepulleys 125, and over the loose pulley 5, on the head A. From this loosepulley the belt passes around the lower pulley 125, one of the pulleys123, and down and .around pulley 121 on shaft 66, and up and over pulley121 and around one of the pulleys 124, and 126 to the loose pulley onhead B. By this arrangement, the entire power from shaft 66, to thesewing machine heads is imparted by a single belt, which insures of themechanism being uniformly operated, and which will permit of all thenecessary adjustment -of the parts without'in any way separatelyadjusting the belt. The weight of the yoke frame is quite sufficient tomaintain the belt taut, and as said yoke frame is pivoted on the shaft60, it will readily yield if an unusual strain should suddenly be placedon the belt.

The power belt 130, is shifted from the fast to the loose pulleys onshaft 60, by'a belt shifter 131, pivotally mounted on the frame 1,'andprovided with an arm 132,

to which is pivoted a link 133, extending forwardly to the front of themachine. The forward end of the link ispivoted to a lever 131, extendingfrom a foot treadle 1355, located in convenient reach of .the operator.

In operating my improved machine, the

end supports 2G26 of the gaging device are laterally adjusted and thegages 2828 are set to accommodate the particular style of collar to beoperated upon. The adjust able supports 24:, are also adjusted tosupport the collar between the end supporting plates and the centralsupporting plates. The two heads A and B, are adjusted.both laterallyand radially to accommodate the shape of the collar, and the dispositionof the buttonhole therein and the gage stops 46 must also be set. Thetreadle 135 is now-rocked and the power belt is shifted to the fastpulley '61, and motion is imparted to the belts 75 and 122. The operatornow places acollar on the gaging device and forces the latter in towardthe heads A and B, and just before the ends of the supports 2626 reachthe cloth clamps the slack in the chain is taken up and the lever 52, ispulled up to bring its 1 roller adjacent the cam 52. This movementcauses the dependingarm 53, to swing away from the inturned end of therod 86 which permits the lever 88, to swing by gravity and disengage thenose 82 from the cam 80, and shifts the belt to the fast pulley 71.Motion is now imparted to the cam shaft 79, and the cams 90 will operateon the levers 91, and raise the cloth clamps. During this time theoperator holds the gagingv device with the collar stationary so thatimmediately the clamps are lifted, with a quick motion, the gagingdevice is pushed farther up against the stop 40, and the rear edge ofthe collar up against the abutting surfaces 46, of the gage stops, withthe ends under said clamps. This movement as before stated brings theroller 52* up into the path of movement of the cam 52. The cams 90 aretimed so as to only hold the clamp elevated for sufficient time to allowthe operator to place the gaged collar under them, then the clamps arelowered and hold the collar on the supports momentarily, for in a momentthereafter, the cam 52, acts on the lever 52 and, depresses it therebywithdrawing the gaging device from beneath the clamps. This movement isonly sufficient to withdraw the ends of the supportsbeyond the clamps,and the operator by pulling on the handle grip 22, returns the gagingdevice to its normal position to receive another collar. Thecloth-clamps now hold the collar in position on the heads A and B, andthe cams 100, operate on the levers 101 and pull the hook links 105,down and operate the stop motion device, to start the stitchingoperation. As previously stated the means operating the stitchingmechanism automatically throws into operation the cutting blade and thetrimmer,it being understood that the cutting blade may be of the type tobe op erated before or after the formation of the stitches. The buttonholes having been completed the stop motion devices automatically stopthe stitching mechanism.

The cam shaft is geared to the main power mechanism so that a completerevolution of said cam shaft is made, before the stitching operation iscompleted. In other words the cam shaft completes its revolution inabout 2; to of the time that it takes to complete a button hole by thestitching operation. This relative movement of the parts is for thepurpose of placing the mechanism in restarting position, and to avoidthe necessity of accurate timing of the parts. After the stitching ofthe first collar is completed, another one having been placed on thegaging device, the latter is pushed in as before described. By so doingthe cam shaft is again revolved, hence the cloth clamps will be elevatedand the operator quickly withdraws the completed collar and forces thegagingdevice toward the heads, and introduces the secured collar tovreceive button holes in the same manner h'ereinbefore stated. Inreerate.

desired to mend it, she may do so without lifting the cloth clamps. Inthis case the gaging device with its collar must not op- The operatormoves the lever 16 on the head where the stitching is to be mended andstarts the stitching mechanism and thereby effects-the stitchingoperation. If, however, the operator fails to notice the defeet untilafter the collar is withdrawn, it must again be placed on the gagingdevice and reintroduced under the clamps as pre viously described. Butto avoid the automatic starting of the two stitching mecha- 'nisms therod 116, is forced inwardly to push the hook links 105 from the path ofmovement of the cross bar 114:. Hence, while the cam shaft makes acomplete revolution, the clamps will alone be liftedand the gagingdevice will be automatically removed from under the same as described.Now that the defective collar is clamped, theoperator will throw thelever 16, of the respective head and operate the stitching mechanism ofthis particular head and mend the button hole then the rod 116 is againwithdrawn when the operation may be continued I as before.

From the foregoing description it will be seen that I have providedmechanism for forming a continuous cycle of operations, controlled bythe introduction of the article being operated upon, and one in whichthe laborious work of throwing in the power separately, and thenintroducing a collar is dispensed with. Furthermore by the arerations inthe cycleof movement are effected by the cams'on the power shaft, and

so long as the operator will feed a collar on the gaging device, or bythe movement of the latter without a collar, the cycle of operation willoccur without further'effort on the part of the attendant. "Yet themechanism is so arranged that any particular fea-' ture of the cycleofmovement is under the control of the operator.

The various'cams are timed to permit sufficient time for the operator tomanipulate thecollar to accomplish'the desired results, and to insure ofthe Various operations being performed in their proper sequence.

' The improvement willje'xpedite the manu-. facture of buttonholes incollars and cuffs, and by reason of the automatic operation of therespective parts,unskilled help maybe employed, and less physical efiortis required to effect the operation. The treadle 135 may be depressed atits front end at any stage of the operation to shift the power belt 130,

which obviously throws out of operation the entire mechanism. While Ihave shown and described my invention for the purpose of making buttonholes in both ends of a collar, it will be obvious to one skilled in theart that the improvement is applicable to a single button hole machine,and I desire to reserve this right. The gaging device is mounted toslide as freelyas possible on the bar 18, and to reduce the frictionballs 18 and means for automatically withdrawing the gaging device priorto the operation of the stitching mechanism.

2. In a machine ofthe. class described, the combination of stitchingmechanism, auto- 'matic mechanism for starting the stitching mechanism,power mechanism and movable means including an artlcle gaging devlcefor,starting the power mechanism to operate the stitching mechanism, saidmeans being arranged to cease its movement before the automaticmechanism is. operated to stop the stitching mechanism. 3. In a machineof the class described, the combination of stitching mechanism, powermechanism including a shiftable belt, a shaft, a movable gaging device,means between the shaft and the gaging. device to cause the shifting ofthe belt to operate the shaft and start the stitching mechanism, andmeans for automatically withdrawing the movable gaging device prior tothe operation of the stitching mechanism.

4c. In a machine of the class described, the combination of two buttonhole machine heads, each of which includes stitching mechanism, a clothclamp, and automatic starting and stopping means, a slidable gagingdevice operable toward and from the heads, end gages mounted on thegaging device, power mechanism for operating the stitching mechanismsand cloth clamps, and means controlled by the movement of the gagingdevice for starting the power mecha-' nism.

5. In a button hole machine, the combination of two button holestitching machine heads, each of said heads including independentstitching mechanism, a cloth clamp,

and a stop motion device, power mechanism,

connections between the v power mechanism. and the cloth clamps and thestop m ot-1on de- Llamas stitching mechanisms.

6. In a button-hole machine, the combination of stitching -mechanism anda cloth:

clamp, constantly operating main power mechanism, auxiliary powermechanism, connections'between the latter mechanism and the cloth clamp,and the stitching mechanism, a gaging device for positioning an articleto the stitching mechanism, and a connection between the gaging deviceand the auxiliary power mechanism, whereby when the gaging device isoperated the main power mechanism will operate the auxiliary powermechanism to lift the clamp and operate the stitching mechanism.

7. In a button hole machine the combination of stitching mechanism, acloth clamp, a stop motion device, fast and loose pulleys, main powermechanism, auxiliary power mechanism connections between the auxiliarypower mechanism and the cloth clamp and the stop motion device, a gagingdevice for positioning an article to the stitching mechanism, meansbetween the gaging device and the auxiliary power mechanism forconnecting the main and auxiliary power mechanisms, when said gagingdevice is operated, whereby to lift the cloth clamp and r the movementof the movable gaging device for causing the power'mechanism to liftthe. cloth clamp and start the stitching m'echa nism. r

9. In abutton hole machine, the COIIlblIlfl:

' operate the stitching mechanism, and means tion of stitchingmechanisms, cloth clamps,

power mechanism, a movable gaging device including gages, stationarystops adjacent the stitching mechanisms, the gages ou the movable gagingdevice and the stops cooperating to position an article to be operatedupon, connections between the cloth clamps and the stitchingmechanisms-andthe power mechanism, means controlled by the movement ofthe movable gaging device for causing the power mechanism 'to lift thecloth clamps and start the stitching mechanisms, and means forstoppingthe movement of' the parts of the power mechanism .the stitchingmechanisms, and tripping mechanism connected with the slidable gag ingdevice for throwing said shaft into operation. 1

11.. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, power mechanism, connections betweenthe power mechanism and the cloth clamps to elevate the same and to thestop motion devices to shift the stop motion devices to cause thestitching mechanisms to operate, a slidably mounted gaging deviceincluding gages, means controlled by the slidably mounted gaging devicefor throwing into operation the power mechanism, automaticmeans operatedby the power mechanism for withdrawing the slidably mounted gagingdevice after the same has been introduced under the cloth clamps and thelatter have lowered, and means for automatically stopping thepowermechanism.

12. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, power mechanism, connections betweenthe power mechanism and the cloth clamps to elevate the same and to thestop motion devices to shift the stop motion devices to cause thestitching mechanism to operate, a slidably mounted gaging deviceincluding gages, means including a tripping device controlled by theslidably mounted gaging device for throwing into operation the powermechanism, automatic means operated by the power mechanism forwithdrawing the slidably mounted gaging device after the same has beenintroduced under the cloth clamps and the latter have lowered, and meansoperating the tripping device for automatically stopping the powermechanism before the completion of the stitching operation.

13. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,cloth clamps, I stop motion devices, main power mechanism, auxiliarypower mechanism ineluding a shaft, and gearing engaging the main powermechanism, connections between the shaft and the cloth clamps to'elevate the latter, connections between the stop motion devices and theshaft to start the stitching mechanisms, a slid-ably mounted gagingvdevice including gages, a tripping device including a connection withthe power shaft 1 and the gaging device, a power shifter interposedbetween the shaft and the tripping device, a device on the shaft withwhich the power shifter engages to permit said shaft to stop and tostartatpredetermined times v and to cause the main power mechanism tooperate the auxiliary power mechanism.

let. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanism,mechanism for causing the stitching mechanism to complete' a cycle ofmovement, a slidably mounted gaging d vice operable toward and from thestitchin mechanism, and means forautomatically withdrawing the slidablymounted gaging device independently of the article introduced to thestitching meeha' nism and before the stitching operation com meneesp 15.In a button hole machine, the combi-.'

nation ofstitching mechanism, a cloth clamp, mechanism for. causing thecloth clamp to raise and the'stitching mechanism to complete a cycle ofmovement, a slidably mounted gaging device, means'betwe'en the slidablymounted gaging device and the cloth clamp to cause the latter to be elevated before thestarting of the cycle of movement of the stitchingmechanism, and means for automatically withdrawing the slidably mountedgaging device after the as i cloth clamp is lowered and before thestitch ing operation is started.

16. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanism,mechanism for operating the stitching mechanism to complete -a cycle'ofmovement, a cloth clamp,

a slidably mounted gaging device operable toward and from thestitching'mechanism, means for automatically lifting the cloth clamp bythe movement of the 1slidably mounted gaging device, means for automatically lowering the cloth clamp, automatic means for withdrawing thevslidably mounted gaging device from beneath the clamp after the latterhas been lowered, and means for stopping the stitching operation withoutstopping the mechanism which operated the stitching mechanism.

17. In a machine of the class described, the

combination of stitching mechanisms, cloth clamps, powermechanismincluding continually operating parts and a normally stationary camshaft, a movable gaging device, power shifting means between the camshaft and the continually operating parts of the power mechanism, adevice on'the cam shaft for controlling the movement of said powershifting means, levers connected to the stitching mechanisms, cams onthe cam shaft for operating said levers to start the stitchingmechanisms, levers connected to the cloth clamps, cams on the cam shaftfor lifting the cloth clamps, means between the'gaging .de-

vice and the power shifting means to cause the cam shaft t be operated,and a cam on the cam shaft for operating the-means between the gagingdevice and the power shifting means to withdraw the gaging device fromthe cloth clamps.

18. In a button hole machine, the combination of two stitchingmechanisms, two cloth clamps, two stop motion devices, a gagingdevicemounted to slide toward and from the stitching mechanisms, gagesmounted on the gaging device, stops adjacent the sewing mechanisms withwhich the gages cooperate when placing an article to be operated upon,continually operating main power mechanism, auxiliary power mechanismoperated at a predetermined time by 'the main power mechanism, meansoperable by the gaging device forcausing the main power mechanism .tooperate the auxiliary power mechanism, connections between the auxiliarypowerjand the stop motion devices and the I cloth clamps whereby tostart the stitching mechanisms and-to lift the cloth clamps, and

manually operated means for disconnecting the connections between thestop motion de- Vices and the auxiliary power mechanism,

without effecting the operation of the cloth clamps. Y e

19. In a button hole machine the combination of stitching mechanism,cloth clamps, stop motion devices, continually operating powermechanism, auxiliary power mechanism operable by the main power mechanism, a gaging device slidable toward and from the stitchingmechanisms, gages mounted on the gaging device, connections between theauxiliary power mechanism and the stop motion devices to shift thelatter to operate the stitching mechanisms, connections between theauxiliary power mechanism and the cloth clamps, neans operated by thegaging device for causing the auxiliary power mechanism to be operatedby the ma n power mechanism, manual means for d1s-.

mechanism'includinga shaft and a cam, op-

erable by the main power mechanism, connections between the auxiliarypower mechanism and stop motion devices and the cloth clamps, a gagingdevice operable toward and from the stitching mechanisms, a shifter,trigger mechanism forholding the shifter in normal position, aconnection between the trigger mechanism and the gaging device,

whereby when the latter is moved to position an article to the stitchingmechanisms the shifter will cause the main power mechanism to operatethe auxiliary power mechanism,

the trigger mechanism being operated upon by the cam to permit theshifter to operate to stop the auxiliary power mechanism.

21. ,In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, continually operating main powermechanism, auxiliary power mechanism operable by the continuallyoperating main power' mechanism, a movable I gaging device includinggages, connections between the auxiliary power mechanism and the stopmotioncdevices whereby to start the stitching mechanisms, connectionsbetween the auxiliary power mechanism and the cloth clamps to elevatethe latter, mechanism controlled by the gaging device for causing themain power mechanism to operate the auxiliary power mechanism, and meansforming a mechanism, connections between the a'uxiliary power mechanismand the cloth clamps to elevate .the latter, mechanism controlled by thegaging device for causing the main power mechanism to operate theauxiliary power mechanism, and means forming a part of the auxiliarypower mechanism for automatically causing the means controlled by thegaging device to disconnect the auxiliary power mechanism from thecontinually operating main power mechanism before the stitchingmechanisms cease their operations.

23. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, a shaft, cams on the shaft, leversconnected with the cloth clamps and operated upon by certain of the camsto elevate said cloth clamps, levers conncted to the stop motiondevices, said le yers. being operated by certaincof the cans to shiftthe s op motion devices tostart the stitching mehanisms, a slidablegaging device including ages, a timing dislrhavinga seat and mounted onthe shaft, a leverv cooperating with the-seat in the timing disk to stopthe'shaft,-.a connection between the gaging device and the lever whichco6perates with the timing disk, said connection being operated upon byone of the cams to automatically withdraw the gaging-device from underthe cloth clamps, means for automatically causing the timing lever todrop ,into its seat, andpower means for operating the shaft.

24. In a button hole machine, the combination ofstitching mechanisms,stop motion iary power mechanism and the cloth clamps to automati -allyelevate the same, a slidably mounted gaging device mcludmg gages adaptedto be moved toward and from the stitching mechanisms, means operated by.

the gaging device for causing the main power mechanism to operate theauxiliary power mechanism,'and means 01 .nrablc by the auxiliary powermechanism for automatically disconnecting the auxiliary power mechanismfrom the main power mechanism.

' 25. In a button hole machine, the combi-- nation of stitchingmechanlsm including a power shaftand fast and *ioosepulleys, a stopmotion device, and a cloth clamp, main power mechanism, auxiliary powermecha nism operable by the main power mechanism, means between theauxiliary power mechanism and the stop motion device to operate thelatter to start the stitching operation,-means between the auxiliarypower mechanism and the cloth clamp to automatio ally elevate thelatter,a belt included in the main power mechanism cooperating witheither the fast or the loose pulley of the stitching mechanism, amovable gaging device including gages, means controlled by the gaging,device for connecting the main power mechanism with the auxiliary powermechanism, means cooperating therewith for automatically withdrawing thegaging device after thecloth clamp has been lowered, means forautomatically disconnecting the auxiliary power mechanism before thebelt is shifted by the stopmotion device to stop the stitchingoperation, manual means for disconnecting. the means between thestopmotion device and the auxiliary power mechanism without interferingwit 1 the operation of the cloth clamp, and means for manually operatingthe stop motion device.

26. Inia button hole machine, the 'combination of stitching mechanism,clothclamps,

a stop motion device,constantly operating main power mechanism includinga belt, auxiliary power mechanism .including a. fast pulley adapted toreceive the belt of the continually operating power mechanism, a diskformed with a seat, a belt shifter cooperating with the belt and thedisk, cams ope 'ated by the auxiliary power mechanism for operating thestop motion to start the stitching operation and for elevating the clothclamps, a slidably mounted gaging device including-gages, trippingmechanism for holding the belt shifterin the seat of the disk,a-fiexible connection between the gaging device and the tripping devicewhereby when the gaging device is forced up to the stitching mechanismthe belt shifter will be operated to cause the belt to operate theauxiliary power mechanism, a cam for operating on the tripping devicefor automatically withdrawing the gaging "device from under 'the clothclamp, and means holding the tripping device and belt shifter undertension to retain the belt shifter adjacent the periphery of the diskand readyto fall into the seat after the withdrawal of the gaging deviceto normal position. i

27. In a nation of stitching mechanisms, stop motion devices, clothclamps, continually operating power mechanism, auxiliary power mechanismincluding a shaft operable by the continually operating power mechanism,con nections. betweenthe shaft and the cloth clamps including connectedlevers, cams and links cooperating with said levers and said clothclamps, connections between the shaft and the stop motion devicesincluding cams connected levers and hooked links suspended from the saidstop motion devices and 10- button holemachine, the combicated in thepath of movement of the connections between the levers, manual means forremoving the hooked links from the path of movement of the connectionbetween said levers, a gaging device, and means for causing the mainpower mechanism to operate the auxiliary power mechanism. 28. In abutton hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms, stopmotion devices, cloth clamps, continually operating power mechanism,auxiliary power mechanism including a shaft operable by the continuallyoperating power mechanism, means between the shaft and the cloth clampsfor automatically elevating the same, connections between the shaft andthe stop motion devices including cams and connected levers and hookedlinks suspended fromthe said stop motion devices and located in the pathof movement of the connection between the 4 levers, manual means forremoving the hooked links from ,the path of movement of' Ill-6 powermechanism to operate the auxiliary power mechanism.

29.. In a button hole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, continually operating powermechanism, auxiliary power mech-' anism including a shaft operable bythe continually operating power mechanism, connections between the shaftand thecloth clamps including connected levers, cams and linkscooperating with the levers and said cloth clamps, connectionsbetweenthe shaft and the stop motion devices including cams and connectedlevers and hooked linkssuspended from the said stop motion devices andlocated in the path of movement of the connection between the levers,manual means for removing the hooked links from the path of movement ofthe connections between said levers, a gaging device, and meanscontrolled by the inward movement of the gaging device for causing themain power mechanism to operate the auxiliary power mechanism includingmeans for automatically stopping the auxiliary power mechanism.

30. In a button hole machine, the'combination of stitching mechanism, acloth clamp,- a stop motion device, a slidably mounted gaging deviceincluding gages, main power mechanism, aux liary power mechanism, a

connection between the auxiliary power mechanism and the cloth clamp toelevate the latter,'a connection between the stop motion device and theauxiliary power mechanism to shift the stop motion device to A start thestitching mechanism, means controlled by the gaging devicefor connectingthe auxiliary power mechanism with the main power mechanism, a cam oaerated by the auxiliary power mechanism or'enga'ging the latterconnectingmeans to automati 'cally withdraw the gaging device after thecloth clamp has lowered, and automatic means for disconnecting theauxiliary power mechanism before the stitching mechanism stops itsoperation. a

31. In a button holemachine, the combination of stitching mechanism, acloth clamp, a stop motion device,. a slidably mounted gaging deviceincluding gages, main power mechanism, auxiliary power mechanism, a

connection between the auxiliary power mechanism and the cloth clamp toelevate the latter, a connection between the stop motion device and theauxiliary power mechanism to shift the stop motion device to start thestitching mechanism, means vcontrolled by the gaging device forcphnecting the auxiliary power mechanism with the main power mechanism,a cam operated by the auxiliary power mechanism for engaging the latterconnecting means to,-automatically withdraw the gaging devices aftr thecloth clamp has lowered, automatic means for disconnecting the auxiliarypower mechanism before the stitching mechanism stops its operation,manually operated means for d1sconnecting the connection between thestop motion device and the auxiliary powermechanism, and manual meansfor operating the stop motion device without operating the auxiliarypower mechanism.

In a machine of the class described, the combination of stitchingmechanism, a gaging device for gaging and locating an article and forstarting the stitching mechanism, and means forautomatically removgagingdevice before the stitching operation is started.

34. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of stitch formingmechanism, .a work clamp, a gaging device movable toward and from thestitch forming mechanism, power mechanism for operating the stitchforming mechanism, means connected with the gaging device for startingthe power mechanism, means for automatically lowering thework clampbefore the stitching operation is started, and means operated by thepower mechanism for removing the gaging device independently of the workand before the stitching operation is started.

" 35. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, awork clamp, a slidably mounted gaging device, stationary gagescooperating with the slida- [ily mounted gaging device, power mechanism,means for automatically starting the power mechanism by movement of thegaging device, means for limiting the movement of the gaging deviceafter the power mechanism has been started, and the work has been gagedagainst the stationary gages, means operated by the power mechanism forwithdrawing the gaging device, and means for lowering the work clamp tohold. the work in gaged position before the gaging device is withdrawn.

36. In a buttonhole machine, the combi nation of stitch formingmechanism, a Work clamp normally in lowered position, a

slidably mounted gaging device adaptedto deliver'work under the 'workclamp when 'same is elevated, power mechanism, means operated by theslidably mounted gaging devicefor starting'the stitching mechanism" andelevating the work clamp, means for automatically lowering the workclamp,

means operated by the power mechanism for retracting the gagingdeviceand leaving the work held by the work clamp, and ,ng eans operatedby the power mechanism Edi stopping the stitching operation-before thework clamp is elevated.

37. In a buttonhole machine, the combi-' nation of stitching mechanism,a work clamp, a reciprocating gaging device, power mechanism foroperating the stitching mechanism, means operated by th reciproca tingdevice for starting the power mecha nism, said means being adapted tobeen.-

gaged' upon each reciprocation of the gaging device to form continuoussuccessive operations of the stitchingmechanism and continuous operationof thepower mecha- I11SII1,II18HI1S, operated by the power mechanisin tolift the work clamp between each reciprocation of the gaging device,means for lowering the workclamp and means operated by the powermechanism for withdrawing the gaging device upon the loweringot the workclamp. 38., In a buttonhole machine, the combination of stitchingmechanism, a work clamp,

, a gaging device, power mechanism, means operated by thepower mechanismfor ele- 'vating'the Workvclamp, means for auto matically lowering thework clamp, means operated by the power mechanism for withdrawing thegaging device after the work I clamp is lowered and the work is held inposition for receiving the stitches, and means for stopping the powermec'hanisin after the stitching mechanism has operated 7 and before thework clamp has been elevated. I

39. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms,stop motion devices, cloth clamps, a gaging device slidably mountedbetween the stitching mechanisms including a pair of gages, agage'adjacent each stitching mechanism cooperating with the gages on thegaging device to locate the work, continually, op-

erating main power mechanism, auxiliary 'power mechanism, means operatedby the gaging device to cause the main power mechanism to operate theauxiliary power mechanism upon each movement of the gaging device towardthe 'stiching mechanism, means operated by the auxiliary power mechanismfor elevating the clamps,

to permit of the introduction of work,

means for withdrawing the gagingv device from the cloth clamps, meansforautomatically disconnecting the auxiliary power a stop motion device,main power mechanism, auxiliarv powerniechanism, a gaging device meansoperated by the gaging-device for causing the main power mechanism tooperate the auxiliary power mechanism, a connection between theauxiliary power mechanism and the. cloth clamp to elevate, the latter, a,connection between the aux 1 iliary power mechanism and the stop motiondevice to cause the main power mechanism to operate the stitchingmechanism,

automatic means for stopping the auxiliary power mechanism, andautomatic means for operating the stop motionvdevice independently ofthe auxiliary power mechanism.

41. In abuttonhole machine, the combination of stitching mechanism, astop motion device, a manually operable gaging device, main powermechanism, auxiliary power mechanism, means operable by the gagingdevice for causing the main power mechanism to operate the auxiliarypower mechanism' to throw the stop motion device to operate thestitching mechanism, automatic 'nfeans for stopping the auxiliary powermechanism, and means, for automatically operating the stop motion deviceto stop the stitching mechanism independently of the auxiliary powermechanism.

42'. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of two stitchingmechanisms, a gage associated with 'eachstitching mechanism, a slidablymounted gaging device including gages which cooperate with the gagesassociated with the stitching mechanisms, means for limiting themovement of the gaging devicewhen the work is gaged,'cloth clamps forthe stitching'mechanisms, main power mechanism, auxiliary power.iechanism, means controlled by the movement of the gagingdevicefor-causing the main power mechanism to operate theauxiliary powermechanism to elevate the cloth clamps to permit subsequent movement ofthe gaging mechanism including means for permitting of the lowering ofthe cloth clamps, and means for Withdrawing the vgaging deviceindependently of the work, subsequently operating the stitchingmechanism, and automatic means independent of the auxiliary powermechanism for stopping the stitching mechanisms.

43. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of stitching mechanisms, agageassociated with each stitching mechanism, a slidably mounted gagingdevice including gages which cooperate with the gages associated withthe stitching mechanisms, means for limiting the movement of the gagingdevice when the work is gaged, cloth clamps for the'stitchingmechanisms, main power mechanism, auxiliary power' mechanism," meanscontrolled by the movement of the gaging device for causing the mainpower' mechanism to operate the auxiliary power device to gage the work,the auxiliary power mechanism to'elevat'e the cloth clamps, to

permit subsequent movement of thegaging device to gage the work, theauxiliary power mechanism including means for permitting of the loweringof the cloth clamps, and

means for withdrawing the gaging device mechanism, tripping meanscontrolled by themanually operated gaging device for causing the powermechanism to first elevate the clamp, then permit the clamp to lower andsubsequently start the stitching mechanism,

the tripping means, gaging device and cloth clamp being arranged so thatthe gaging device in its movement tointroduce the work V must be'stoppedbetween the'starting of the power mechanism and the lifting of theclamp, and subsequently moved again in its first direction to introducethe work undersaid cloth clamp, and means for automati callyvithdrawing'the gaging device from the clamp independentof the work,after the clamp is lowered; 1 l

45. In a button-hole machine, stitching mechanism, power mechanismtherefor, control devices intermediate said power mechanism andstitching mechanism, auxiliary power mechanism for operating thecontrol' devices, and a gaging device governing the operation of theauxiliary power mechanism.

46. In a buttonhole machine, stitching mechanism, controlling devicestherefor,

power mechanism in part normally opera-' tive to actuate the stitchingmechanism and in part normally inoperative for operating the controllingdevices to start said stitching L mechanism, and a manually operatedgaging device controlling the normally inoperative part of the powermechanism.

47. In a buttonhole machine, stitching mechanism, controlling devicestherefor,"

power mechanism in part normally operative to actuate the stitchingmechanism and in part normally inoperative for operating the controllingdevices to start said stitching mechanism, a manually operated gagingdevi ce movable to and from the stitching mechanism, said gaging devicecontrolling the normally inoperative part of thepower mechanism, andmeans operated by the normally inoperative part of the power mechanismfor automatically operating the gaging device for a predetermined partof the movement of said. device from thestitching mechanism.

48. In a buttonhole machine, stitching mechanism, a manuallyoperated-gaging device movable to and from the stitching mechanism,power mechanism, and stitchingmechanism control-devices normally heldfrom the influence of the power mechanism said gaging device controllingsaid stitching mechanism controlled devices.

49. In a buttonhole machine, stitching T mechanism, normally operative pmeans, control devices intermediate power. means and stitchingi'uechanisi'n starting the latter, said'control devices being normallyinoperative, and mechanism oper ated directly by thepower means fortimedeterminate for the governing of "tlfi col..-

.trol devices, and manually controlled means for governing saidmechanism that is open ated directly by'the power means.

50. In a machine of the class described, the combination of stitchingmechanism, a

gaging device including gages to gage an article tobe operated upon, aguide for said gaging device, manually operated means for positioningsaid gaging device and the article to be operated upon by the stitchingmechanism, and means to cause said gaging device to be withdrawn fromgaging position before the stitching mechanism commences to operate.

In testimony whereof I have signed myname to this specification in thepresence of two subscrlbing witnesses.

HENRY C. MILLER.

VVitness'es H. R. VAN KLEEG CnAnLnh WIN E.

